Charleston, MO to Opelika, AL

This morning we parted company with Bryan who headed to Louisville to visit a friend. Boyd & I headed towards home. The idea was to take secondary roads, which led to our only real problem of the day. The route I selected was to have taken us across the Mississippi River via a ferry. However, as we approached the ferry site, we realized that the river flooding had closed the ferry. That force us to backtrack about 25 miles before we could find another place to cross the river on I-155. Once that had been accomplished, we made fairly good time down to Jackson, TN, Birminham, AL and finally stopped for the night in Opelika near Auburn University. We hope to be home for dinner tomorrow.

Gunny

Eureka Springs & Mammoth Springs

We left Miami, OK yesterday morning & travelled via back roads to Eureka Springs, AR at the western edge of the Ozark Mountains. We then traversed the northern edge of the mountains then headed for Boyd's birthplace at Mammoth Springs in northwest Arkansas. After marvelling at how much the place has changed in the past 40 years and taking lots of photos, we were off again. This time we stopped for the night in Charleston, MO. Tomorrow we head for home.

Gunny

Kansas in the Rain

We have had no real rain before today but our luck has run out. We left Garden City, KS in a light rain which quickly changed to a frog drowner. For the next 163 miles we struggled through high winds & heavy rain with visibility so bad it was sometimes difficult to find the highway centerline. After stopping for lunch in Kingman, KS the rain began to let up & finally stopped. However, we were soaked by then & did not really dry out all day. Tonight we have wet gear hanging all over our motel room in Miami, OK. Looks like tomorrow will be better weather for our trip through to Ozarks.
Gunny

Pueblo, CO to Garden City, KS

The day started off with a trip to the Honda dealer in Pueblo, CO. Bryan needed new tires & Boyd's Wing was suffering from an engine miss. Bryan got a new set of Metzlers & the tech quickly diagnosed Boyd's problem as a cracked spark plug boot. The shop did not have a replacement wire in stock so the tech wrapped the cracked insulation with electrical tape. That temporary fix allowed us to get under way.

We have decided to avoid the Interstates as much as possible so we headed east on US-50. After a few hours, we stopped at Wendy's in La Junta, CO for a drink. We struck up a conversation with a local couple who told us about a nearby restored fort dating from the time when the area south of the Arizona River belonged to Mexico. We decided to take a look & were glad we did.

Bent's Old Fort is a walled adobe structure near the north bank of the Arizona River. Built in 1833 by Charles & William Bent, the fort served as a trading post for trappers, buffalo hunters & local Indians. Touring the place we were amazed at how much space there was inside the seemingly small structure and how cool it was inside the adobe walls compared to the nearly 100 degrees outside. While the normal population was about 60, the fort sometimes accomodated up to 200.

We left once again thankful we listened to the advise of the local residents. A few more hours on the road brought us to Garden City, KS where we have stopped for the night.

Gunny

Royal Gorge, Colorado

Today we were back in the high desert to visit the Royal Gorge Bridge and Park. It is located just west of Canon City, Colorado. The suspension bridge was built in 1929 as a tourist device. It is truely a bridge to nowhere. It is 1,260 feet long and stands 1,053 feet above the Arkansas River. Although it is open to vehicular traffic for an additional fee, pedestrians are welcome to cross for free. Free being a good thing at this point of the trip, Boyd, Bryan and I opted to walk across the bridge. The excursion brought no end of amusement to Dr. Harrell as he dutifully documented my timid progress and green color. While I walked back across the bridge on my own, Boyd & Bryan walked up the cliff to take the cable car back across the gorge (the climb was too much for my bad knees). While I sat to recuperate from my trip across the bridge, the boys took the Incline Railway 1,550 feet down to the canyon floor travelling at a 45 degree incline.

I have decided that it is time to get my overweight, overage, under oxygenated body back to sea level. So, we headed east on Route 50. While stopped for fuel in Pueblo, CO, Bryan noticed that cords were showing on his rear tire. After a quick phone call, he located a cycle shop a few miles from here, but they would not be able to change the tire until tomorrow morning. So, we had an early stop and a nice dinner celebrating Boyd's birthday a day early. Tomorrow we'll get Bryan's new tire(s) and get back on the road.

Gunny

Rocky Mountain National Park

Today we arrived at The Rocky Mountain National Park. We entered the park from the west side at Grand Lake, CO. Almost immediately we began seeing elk along the side of the road. Boyd got some pretty good photos of a bull grazing beside the Colorado River. We then began the steep climb towards the continental divide. On the way up I almost ran into the rear of a vehicle that had stopped in the middle of the road to gawk at a mountain goat high on a mountain top. Dang tourists! We finally reached the visitor center at about 11,700 feet. We were all feeling the effects of the altitude as we stopped to admire the views there above the treeline. We could see high mountain meadows dotted with patches of snow and herds of elk grazing on tundra grass as well as still higher peaks surrounding us. Leaving the visitor center, we climbed to about 12,200 feet before beginning our descent to the east end of the park at Estes Park, CO.

We then headed south on some nice cycle roads (Rts 7, 72, & 191). We stopped for the night in Idaho Springs, CO. Tomorrow we will head for Royal Gorge.

Gunny

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Today we changed plans again. We rode picturesque Route 550 from Durango, through Silverton and Oray (Little Switzerland) to Montrose, then took Route 50 to The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Okay, more rock and more canyons, but this is the deepest, most verticle walled canyon we have seen yet. Very impressive place. It also contains the steepest road we have yet encountered at a 16% grade. The steepest we have seen anywhere else is 8%. Not only is it steep, but it winds back and forth down the canyon side to the Gunnison River.

Afterwards, we rode Route 50 throught the Monarch Pass and stopped for the night in Salida, CO.

Gunny

Durango-Silverton Railroad

We left Durango this morning on a narrow guage railroad that ran north into the mountains to reach the old mining town of Silverton, Colorado. It took a full 3 1/2 hours for the train, pulled by an orginal steam engine, to cover the 50 miles and 2800 foot climb. The tracks, completed in the 1860's, runs along side the Animus River and hangs off the cliffs with often no visble separation between the tracks and the cliff edge. The river itself is white water for the majority of the distance. We were able to get some magnificent photos and videos that we will share with you when cirumstances permit.

Arriving in Silverton, we found an 1800's high mountain village that has been converted from mining to tourism. Very picturesque, very trendy, with very little else to recommend it. We had a good lunch at one of the many restaurant/bars in town. Bryan should not have had the buffalo burger (enough said). He was also disppointed with the lack of operational brothels.

After a couple of hours, we reboarded the train for the trip home. Another 3 1/2 hours of rocking on a 100 year old bench seat. I was very happy to get back to Durango. It was a great trip. One I am glad I took since the views were so fabulous but one I will not repeat again in the near future.

Gunny

Four Corners, Mesa Verde & Durango

Had a great day today travelling first to the Four Corners, then to Mesa Verde and, finally to Durango. Sounds like a lot, but the total distance was under 200 miles.

For those who may not know, the Four Corners refers to the point where New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado and Utah meet. It's on Indian land and consists of a marker in the ground and some Indian vendors. Not a long stop, but a gotta do photo op. Which reminds me, we have lots of photos, but most of the WiFi connections available to us will not upload the photos. They may have to wait until we get home to upload more.

Mesa Verde is a National Park that sits between Cortez and Durango, CO. From the entrance, it is a 23 mile, 7,000 ft climb to the top. The primary attraction includes several ancient cliff dwellings. Most require strenuous climbs on stairways and ladders to visit. However, one, Spruce Tree House, can be reached by a paved, switchback walkway. It was still too much for my bad knees, but Bryan and & Boyd made the trip down and back. Bryan decided he didn't want to live there - no topless Indians, just more rocks.

Upon arriving in Durango, we went straight to the Durango-Silverton Railroad depot to purchase tickets for tomorrows train ride to Silverton and back. After checking into the motel and dinner at the Serious Texas Barbecue, we spent the evening people watching in downtown Durango. It was a very pleasant evening. It was a nice change of pace from the frantic pace of the past week. We plan to do it again tomorrow night.

Gunny

Bryce Canyon and Beyond

This morning we headed for Bryce Canyon. Since it is much higher than Zion, the temperatures were far cooler (78). We were very happy about that. Bryce has very interesting geologic formations, but, as Bryan put it, "Yup, more rocks." I guess at this point of the trip have all seen enough rocks and desert. So, we made the trip up to the end of the park and back, stopped at a few of the scenic overlooks, took some pictures, had lunch at the park lodge and headed out.

That led us to the most interesting part of today's travels: Utah Route 12. It is 123 miles of tight turns, extreme elevation changes, color changes and just plain fun. The road took us from the desert floor to the mountain tops, down and up again several times. Added to that, the highway passes through open range, which meant several stops to clear cattle out of the way. What a great road! Don't miss it if you are in the area.

From Route 12 we headed southeast on Route 24 which took us through the Coarl Reef National Park. Hear again the views were magnificent, although Bryan saw only more rocks. After leaveing the park, Route 24 winds through a seemingly endless streatch of Utah desert (refer back to previous desert comment).

We finally turned onto Route 95 through Glen Canyon, across the north end of Lake Powell, across the mesa lands to Blanding, UT where we have stopped for the night.

Tomorrow should see us clear of the desert, and none too soon, as the temperatures out here have been much higher than normal.

Gunny

Zion National Park

We got a late start this morning as Bryan's Yamaha needed some service. We left for Zion National Park about 1:30 p.m. with arrivial about 40 minutes later. The park is beautiful. The temperature, however, was nearly unbearable. Good hint: If you go to Zion, go early in the day. We made a run from the east entrance to the Visitor Center (about 13 miles). Took a shuttle bus up the scenic drive where private vehicles are prohibited, then made the return drive along the same route. The drive is very challenging with many hair pin turns and changes in elevation, but is very slow, especially in the area of the 1.1 mile tunnel. The scenery also makes the drive hard because it is difficult to keep your eyes on the road.

We have all had enough of this heat and are thinking of avoiding any further desert visits. Bryce Canyon is supposed to be cooler. We'll find out tomorrow.

Gunny

Day 6 and the North Rim

We set out from Page, AZ this morning enroute to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon to determine for ourselves whether the North or South Rim is the better destination.

As we travelled down Route 89A we ran across the Navajo Bridge in Marble Canyon. We decided to stop to take a look. What a great decision! The view from the bridge over the Colorado River is absolutely spectacular as are the views of the surrounding canyon walls. Our intended 10 minute stop turned into 2 hours, including a side trip to nearby Lee's Ferry which was the main Colorado River crossing point before the Navajo Bridge was constructed. Near the ferry site we were able to walk down to the river's edge and watch several rafts run the Paria Riffle (a riffle is white water too small to be called at rapids). Bryan is now trying to find out how to join one of the rafting trips. On the way back to the highway, we stopped to get some pictures of some unique balanced rock formations. I gotta tell you, I had a hard time keeping my eyes on the road there because we were surrounded on all side by magnificent red rock cliffs. We were all very happy to have made this unscheduled stop.

We finally made our way towards the North Rim and stopped for lunch at the Kaibab (pronounced kybob) Lodge. It was an excellent meal in a very nice log lodge.

Once inside the park, the difference between the South Rim and North Rim was obvious. Where the South Rim is a crowded, hot, modern, desert environment, the North Rim is cool, wooded environment with log cabins and a visitor's center in the craftsman style. Onto of that the drive into the park and the roads to the various viewing points winding and wooded. We all agreed that the North Rim is far more pleasant destination.

We are now in Kanab, UT for the night & will be going to Zion National Park tomorrow. More later.

Gunny

Day 5, Wednesday, June 19

We started out from Holbrook, AZ at 7:30 this morning and headed to the Petrified Forest National Park. The name is somewhat of a misnomer because he park contains the Painted Desert as well as the Petrified Forest. We purchased annual National Parks passes and were pleased to learn that we needed only one pass for every two bikes. That saved us $80.00. We thought we would zip through this stop in a very short time, but found ourselves stopping often to take photos of the changing desert landscapes and colors. We also spend some time at the Painted Desert Inn. Very interesting spot. Too bad it is no longer open for overnight guests. We finally made it down to the petrified trees, bought some souvenirs and headed west again.

The wind was blowing so strongly that riding was difficult and tiring. Once we reached Flagstaff we knew it was time to get off the interstate so we gave up on going to the Grand Canyon Skywalk, which was a couple of hundered miles further west, and turned north on 180 to the Grand Canyon South Entrance. Now the Grand Canyon is the kind of place that you can see enough of in 20 minutes or spend weeks viewing. We split the difference, visiting as many spots as possible in the 5 hours or so we were there.

Finally, we exited the park at the east entrance, taking 64 to 89 and 89 north to Page, AZ, on the southern edge of Lake Powell. That was an 82 mile run on 2-lane blacktop with out a single stop until we arrived in Page.

Day 4 on the Road

Today proved the maxim that travel itineraries should be flexible. We headed out of Taos early in the morning for the High Road to Santa Fe. Along the way, one of our pre-selected roads quickly turned to dirt, causing some route changes. We easliy made the change & got back on route for some twistes over and down the mountain, traversing from high mountain firs to desert scrub. Nice road. Great views.

Afterwards we shot down 285, across a short streatch of I-25 to NM-14 which carried us into Madrid, NM. If you have seen the movie "Wild Hogs" you will remember Madrid. Boyd, Brian & I had a beverage on the front porch of the Madrid Boading House with the owner and a few local characters. Pete, who rides an old Russian cycle complete with sidecar, told us about a ride that he especially likes. After a few more stories, we decided to follow his suggestion and headed south out of Madrid towards Sandia Crest. The road up is about 16 miles of hard switchbacks, curves and very short straightaways. Bryan even managed to scrape the pegs on his Yamaha on the way up (a first). Once at the top (elev. 10600 ft.) we were treated to a breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside, include an panorama of Albuquerque. They say you can see eighty miles from up there.

Our next stop was to have been in Chambers, AZ, but after learning that the only motel there wanted $89 per person, we decided to move on to Holbrook, AZ, where we have holed up for the night. I thnk we may be changing the itinerary for tomorrow as well. We will keep you posted.

Gunny

Two Old Guys & a Skinny Kid Head West

On Saturday, June 14, Bryan Bergau, Boyd Harrell & I met at 6:00 a.m. to begin our trek to the four corners area. J.T. Sims also met us to bless the bike and the trip. Then we were off, heading up I-75 to Atlanta, then thru Birmingham to Jasper, AL. After 658 miles and too many hours, we pulled into the motel for a well needed rest.
On Sunday we headed west out of Jasper with the goal of making it to El Reno, OK for the night. After passing thru Memphis, Little Rock and Oklahoma City, and covering 718 miles, we arrived at our destination.
Monday started out with a light rain but soon dried up. However, when the rain stopped, the wind began. After 500 miles of leaning into the wind, we left I-40 and turned north on US-85, which a remnent of historic Route 66. That and a short distance up I-25, we arrived in Las Vegas, NM, where we grabbed NM-518 north to NM-434. Finally a fun road up and over the mountain with lots of twisties, woods, hills and a beautiful stream running along side of the road. Then we had more twisties on NM-64 enroute to Taos. A total of 580 miles today.
More later.
Gunny

June Beach Ride

I was hoping to get a few pictures from Ace to accompany this article. However, Ace did a much better job describing the ride than I could. So, I'll just refer you to his blog at:

http://navrides.blogspot.com/

New Member Inductions

We will be inducting three new members, Marc Pfister, Gaylyn Russell & Wesley Swafford, at our Chapter Meeting on June 12, 2008. Please join us in welcoming these new members. We will also be welcoming two late renewals, Dee Dee Gregory & Matt Combs. We will be meeting at Sparky's offices.